29.5.11

wine word one

The only thing I do better than writing my thesis, is procrastination. I've become dora the explorer of my little town in Catalunya, taking photos, taking notes, taking ice-creams on lazy Sundays. The library lives about 57.83 metres from me. So do all the books that I never had the chance to read. Until now. They are rarely related to any of the key words in my thesis. All this (intended) thinking about my thesis got me thinking about wine tastings and the descriptors used. Describing wine has become it's own literary, very-much-for-profit, industry. With every swoosh of the glass a new short story is born. Ones that would make even Victor Hugo misérable


According to Emile Peynaud and Jacques Blouin (the taste of wine: the art and science of wine appreciation) "fragrance" belongs to the realm of poetic description. This is true. BUT, they also mention that it should not be overdone and that "the primary difficulty arises from the subjective nature of wine tasting, for it is based on personal impressions whereby the key is the taster's own personality". Some of these delightful personalities, however, take their literary aspirations out on unsuspecting wine lovers. I find this to be rather un-billik
Nevertheless, we need to describe the wines at some stage. Just remember that less is more. As William Strunk Jr. wrote in Elements of style (a friend sent this and some other articles to me to help with my thesis writer's block): 


"Vigorous writing is concise. A sentence should contain no unnecessary words, a paragraph no unnecessary sentences, for the same reason that a drawing should have no unnecessary lines and a machine no unnecessary parts. This requires not that the writer make all his sentences short, or that he avoid all detail and treat his subjects only in outline, but that every word tell."


So, in keeping my challenge-accepted promise, to the black impala: here is the first wine word/real world for the new kids on the block. 


ANIMAL (aromatic descriptor) /ˈanɪm(ə)l/
Real world:
Oxford dictionary: a living organism which feeds on organic matter, typically having specialized sense organs and nervous system and able to respond rapidly to stimuli.
Urban dictionary: very sexy, wild in bed, quite hairy and lives in the woods. meaning excellent. also see savage. the kick-ass pink dude from the Muppets.


Wine world:
It can be a leather, musk, barnyard, horse-sweat, reductive and stinky smell. 
The culprit compounds are mostly sulphur-containing compounds like 3-mercaptohexanol, 3-mercapto-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-mercaptoethylacetate and so on and so forth. Brettanomyces is also a favourite with animal smells. Some like it some don't. Some French friends find it adds to complexity and thus has a disturbing infatuation with the brett-character. You decide.


I leave you with Ernest Hemingway, famous for his minimalist style of writing: The wine is too good for toast-drinking, my dear. You don't want to mix emotions up with a wine like that. You lose the taste. The Sun Also Rises (1926).

14.5.11

Fira del Vi 2011

The Fira del Vi (and yes, this is catalan) is the annual wine festival held in Falset, Priorat after semana santa end of April, beginning May. There are many activities during this festival which ranges from research talks to wine tastings, wine tastings and then some. All the towns in and around D.O Priorat and Montsant have things to do during this week of festivities. You have the Carinyenas of Porrera and the Nit de Garnatxas in Capçanes. Gots to love it! Saturday and Sunday are when the wineries man their stalls at the Castell del Vi (The Wine Castle- niiiice). Everybody from Mas Martinet Viticultors, Assesoraments, Cims de Porrera, Les Cousins and Venus "La Universal" (which is all the different projects and collaborations of the Pérez family) was helping with the preparation and giving tastings on this crazy weekend (29 April - 1 May). This little wine fly too.



I've been looking forward to the festivities and was unimpressed when a flu bug fancied me and interfered less than a week before the festival. Due to this bug and perhaps also due the soccer (or shall is say football) match between barcelona and madrid - the first leg of the UEFA semi-finals (i might have yelled at the referee or the players at times), i had a superbly unsexy and husky voice (at time no voice) for the duration of the festival.

If trying to give a tasting with this voice is funny then trying to give tastings in castellano and catalan with this voice is hilarious. On Saturday if the visitors came up and spoke catalan to me I just returned a blank stare, apologised for not speaking catalan very well and then beamed up at Adria, Marc and Albert so that they would help the people. This worked most of the time. Sometimes though, you'd get the very friendly man that ignores the fact that you can't really speak catalan and then keep chatting, asking questions about the wines and making jokes. I laughed appropriately, on interval, I think. Not so sure.

Coincidentally Grenache and Carignan have super powers and by Sunday my voice along with my confidence made a comeback. Bliss.

If you have read anything else on this blog, I'm confident that you have left your great expectations of normality behind and will know that along with my random thoughts and pictures, tasting notes or descriptions of wines, will not be traditional, not politically correct and subjective to a fault. I'm thinking of my friends when I write this, and hope it's as honest, easy-going and billik as they are.

Here's a quick review of the four reds that we served at our table. When tasting all four I'd suggest you start with the Dido 2009, then L'Inconscient 2008, followed by Martinet Bru 2007 and finishing off with Solanes 2006. I'm explaining it according to photo below, left to right.

Solanes, L'inconscient, Martinet Bru, Dido

1. SOLANES, CIMS DE PORRERA. 2006.

It's the "second wine" of Cims de Porrera (created and run by Josép Lluis Pérez (the father and founder), Adrià Pérez (the son) and Marc Pérez (the cousin)). Perhaps one day I'll go into the history of it all. It remains to be seen. For now, I'll get back to the wines.

Solanes is a crianza (about 12-14 months in barrel) and then spends another one year in the bottle, made up mainly of Carignan (Carinyena, Carineña) and in a lesser percentage of Grenache noir (Garnatxa, Garnacha). All the grapes come form vines used in the Porrera area and the wine is elaborated in the old Cooperative of Porrera. For me most of the "classic" red wines from the Priorat area are intense, with ripe blackberries, mulberries, sometimes raisins, with fresh and dried herbs and spices and a deep mineral undertone. And when I say mineral i mean the smell of soil after it rained and the freshness of the forest floor when you breathe in the air and the feeling and smell of river rocks. And the Solanes is like that. The one visitor at the stall said: Now this is Priorat in a glass for you. I need more time to know if that statement is completely true but i like to think so. It's elegant yet powerful. 

13€ sur place.

2. L'INCONSCIENT, LES COUSINS. 2008.

This wine is the the younger, lighter brother of Sagesse. These two wines, l'Inconscient and Sagesse, are made by, yes you guessed it, the two cousins, Marc and Adria. It's a new project that they started a few years ago and they make the wine at the Cims de Porrera cellar. The labels were designed by an artist in Barcelona. I might remember his name and might even write about it later.



I feel that this wine is the "funky rebel" of the four! It's a easy-drinking wine that is as fun as the label. It's also a crianza like the others with aorund 15 months in barrel. It makes me think of ripe cherries in colour and is fruity (a mix of red and black fruits) and smooth (the tannins being well integrated). I'm already seeing my friends and I opening a few of these babies in Southern Africa, around a fire in the bosveld, at the harbour staring out over Stellenbosch, in Cape Town looking out over the sea or in the middle of the Nambo desert with nothing around us for kilometres. 

9€ sur place

3. DIDO, LA UNIVERSAL. 2009.

This is the youngest of the four and also top contender for the Southern African adventures planned post-October. It's flowery and (red) fruity and delicious. Also very well balanced. It's a "half-crianza" (if that's even a term) and spent about 6 months in barrels. The backbone of this wine is Garnaxta with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot added for good measure. Many people wanted to taste the white Dido (Garnatxa and Macabeu) but we stuck with our reds for the weekend. Dido is the lighter partner in the project Venus "La Universal" created and run by Sara Pérez and René Barbier. It's proudly made in the D.O. Montsant.



12€ sur place.

4. MARTINET BRU, MAS MARTINET VITICULTORS. 2007.

This is a Garnaxta and Syrah blend with the grapes coming from the parcel, Mas Torrent. When looking at the wines from Ms Martinet, you would notice that each wine is made solely from one parcel. (These wines will be discussed in a later stage during my stay here). It's a crianza with about 12-15 months in barrel. It's and intense pomegranate-pip, ruby red, and full round en bouche. It reminds me of ripe cherries, strawberries and plums. This is the first year with the new label and new style. The "previous" Martinet Bru was a blend with several varieties and on two separate occasions I've heard people say that they have been underwhelmed by the "old style" prefer the new style with only Garnaxta and Syrah. You might recognise the old label with the big palm on the label. I will do a tasting of the two together and then try and explain the differences on all levels.

15€ sur place.


I wanted to tell you more about some of the wines I tasted there but it's past my lunch time, and I'm smelling all the food that the spanish mamas are cooking and i seriously need to do the same for myself now. I leave you with my love for quotes and all things word-y.

CONNOISSEUR, n. A specialist who knows everything about something and nothing about anything else. An old wine-bibber having been smashed in a railway collision, some wine was poured on his lips to revive him. "Pauillac, 1873," he murmured and died. Ambrose Bierce, American author, (1842-1914) in The Devil's Dictionary






5.5.11

poppy flower poppy fever


Curiously enough, the only thing that went through the mind of the bowl of the petunias as it fell was Oh no, not again. Douglas Adams - The Hitchiker's Guide to the Galaxy

Now these aren't petunias, but I'll take that cigar.

Bring Sally up and bring Sally down. Moby - Flower

The poppies hung Dew-dabbed on their stalks. John Keats

The poppy opes her scarlet purse of dreams. Scharmel Iris

Oracular Spectacular. MGMT- album

Yeah ... poppies. Marcy Playground - Poppies

Visions for those too tired to sleep, The seeds cast a film over eyes which weep. Amy Lowell

Find me next a Poppy pozy, Type of his harangues so dozy. Thomas Moore

I came as flowers, I came as nice, I came as dirt, and I came as a surprise. Modest Mouse - I came as a rat


two's a crowd

decisions. I don't have much more to say really. the apple of my eye, my snowy knight in matte white armour, my appeliefie and I have decided on a trial separation. don't irritate, separate. (and yes I think I might have just ripped-off an old perfume commercial). hence the silence of the past weeks.

It's simple. we spent too much time together. watched sunrises while having a cup of tea; did morning exercises; had a glass of wine with the sunsets; went to work together; did research together. had chatcycles with friends and family all the time. vinkel and koljander we were. searched for recipes together (yes we love jamie); watched an insane amount of movies together and inevitably fell asleep side by side. and the music, don't even get me started on the music.

dusk till dawn. this is how crazy people are born.

things are better now. and for the next few months the world is our oyster, the world is our prawn, but mostly the world is our hypothesis. with baby steps and less electricity we've started mending our yellow brick road. who knows if we'll capture the former pride and glory i miss so much. caring is creepy, says the shins. true that. no giant leaps. baby steps. building nothing, laying bricks.

We must, indeed, all hang together or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately. Benjamin Franklin.